Published on December 21st, 2023
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It’s often said that one of the fringe benefits of pregnancy is achieving a more radiant complexion—without any extra legwork on your part. But dermatological complaints are quite common in pregnancy, whether it’s battling hormonal acne, melasma (also called “pregnancy mask”), or habitually dry skin.
Unfortunately, certain heralded skincare ingredients can be dangerous for babies in utero due to their potential to cross the placental barrier. Knowing which could potentially cause harm—like retinoid and certain skin-bleaching agents—is an important part of protecting your little one’s health.
Giving up your trusty nightly retinol cream doesn’t mean you need to close the door on youthful-looking skin. If you’re currently overhauling your routine to make it pregnancy safe skincare regimen, read on for our shortlist of skincare ingredients to avoid while pregnant (and substitutes you can make) to help you meet your rosy pregnancy complexion goals.
Retinoids
If you’re a skincare enthusiast, you’ve probably heard about topical retinoid, a class of vitamin A derivatives with a potent reputation for creating more youthful skin.
Retinoids are frequently used topically or taken orally to:
- Spur skin cell turnover
- Improve skin elasticity
- Reduce visible signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles
- Counteract acne
However, when applied topically, retinoids can penetrate the skin and transit the bloodstream. For expecting moms, this means they could be absorbed by their developing baby. As excessive levels of vitamin A have been linked to birth defects and developmental complications in the heart and central nervous system, they’re not considered safe to use for a pregnant person.
Importantly, retinoids come in several forms, some of which require a prescription from a dermatologist. Some strains you might encounter include:
- Retinol
- Tretinoin
- Isotretinoin
- Retinoic acid
- Retin-A
There are also several synthetic retinoids that are created in a lab setting (rather than derived from natural sources). These include:
- Tazarotene
- Trifarotene
- Adapalene
If you’re recently pregnant or planning for a baby, be sure to vet your current skin care products and always let your dermatologist know when deciding on a suitable, safe pregnancy skincare regimen.
Hydroquinone
An exceedingly common skin condition affecting up to 70% of pregnant women is melasma, nicknamed “pregnancy mask” or “the mask of pregnancy.” In some women, the surge of reproductive hormones during pregnancy can aggravate melanocytes, the cells that contribute to skin pigmentation.
When melanocytes go into overdrive, this can result in hyperpigmentation or the appearance of dark casts on the skin.
Hydroquinone is a compound that can be applied topically and is often found in skincare products that combat hyperpigmentation. Unfortunately, it’s not considered safe for regular use for a pregnant person.
Like vitamin A derivatives, hydroquinone can seep into the skin and the bloodstream, potentially crossing the placental barrier and impeding your baby’s development. If used for more than 6 months during pregnancy, it may heighten the risk of low birth weight in your newborn.
High-Dose Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid, a type of BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) is one of the most common active ingredients you’ll find in topical anti-acne cleansers, lotions, and other products. These products typically contain salicylic acid in low doses, making them relatively safe for pregnant women.
However, high-dose salicylic acid could be hazardous for developing fetuses on two accounts:
- Some animal studies have shown that systemically absorbed salicylic acid (taking high-dose oral salicylic acid medications) can cause developmental abnormalities in embryos.
- Salicylic acid is chemically related to aspirin, an OTC pain reliever that’s discouraged from use by expecting moms.
Generally speaking, it’s safe to use OTC skincare products like acne washes, which contain relatively small amounts of salicylic acid—as well as peer acne-fighter benzoyl peroxide. But if you’re already on an oral salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide regimen, it’s best to discontinue use if you’re pregnant or planning a pregnancy.
Additionally, keep an eye out for cosmetic treatments like chemical peels, which frequently call on high-concentration SA to help exfoliate and renew skin.
Certain Essential Oils
Looking for safe essential oils for pregnancy? Essential oils are commonly used in therapeutic self-care practices like massage and aromatherapy. However, they can be extremely potent, requiring a massive amount of plant material to produce.
In general, pregnant women are discouraged from using essential oils during their first trimester of pregnancy. While essential oils are an under-researched skincare ingredient, experts recommend exercising caution when considering blends that contain:
- Tea tree
- Rosemary
- Peppermint
Other possible offenders include parsley, clary sage, basil, and oregano, which have been linked to early uterine contractions in some cases. If you’re interested in using essential oils during pregnancy, it’s best to stick to their aromatherapeutic applications. When applying them to your skin, always be sure to dilute them with a matching carrier oil, like jojoba or sweet almond oil.
Pregnancy-Safe Skincare Swaps to Make During Pregnancy
Scanning ingredient labels and recreating your skincare routine during pregnancy can feel like a tall order. The good news is that there’s a world of ingredients that can both catalyze your skincare goals and protect fetal and maternal health.
Whether you’re chasing the rejuvenating effects of retinoids or want an acne-fighting ingredient that can keep pregnancy pimples at bay, the following substitutions can help you achieve your pregnancy glow-up (just be sure to consult with your healthcare provider before you make them a regular part of your routine!).
Instead of Retinoids, Try Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is an exfoliating skincare ingredient that’s chiefly used to:
- Refine and even out skin texture
- Reduce inflammation
- Combat rosacea
- Counteract signs of acne
In general, the compound carries low rates of irritation—and if you notice any, it’ll typically quiet shortly after you first start using it.
Since azelaic acid is less potent than retinoids, you may not notice results straight away. However, azelaic acid boasts buildable results over time—and those 9 months of pregnancy can be an excellent trial period!
As an even gentler, moisturizing alternative, rosehip seed oil is an antioxidant-rich ingredient containing naturally occurring vitamin A. It also boasts naturally occurring vitamin C, making for an exceptional combination that can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, acne, and uneven skin tone.
Instead of Hydroquinone, Try Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a pregnancy-friendly skincare ingredient that may bring even more to the table than hydroquinone.
Rather than “bleaching” the skin, vitamin C fights hyperpigmentation by discouraging skin cells from overproducing melanin. Plus, it tends to come in low, mild doses in OTC skincare products: you’d need to use up to 200x the recommended amount to pose a risk to your baby.
In addition to combatting hyperpigmentation, vitamin C has also proven effective in:
- Protecting against damaging UV rays
- Paring down redness and inflammation
- Counteracting acne by reducing skin inflammation
Vitamin C can be used as a nighttime or morning skincare ingredient since it’s generally well-tolerated by the skin when exposed to sunlight. You can try layering it under your favorite moisturizer as a gel or serum, or even blend it into your moisturizer of choice.
Instead of High-Dose Salicylic Acid, Try AHAs
AHAs, or alpha-hydroxy acids, are a class of skin exfoliators that are safe to use during your nine months of pregnancy. Some of the most common ones you’ll come across include:
- Glycolic acid
- Lactic acid
- Citric acid
- Malic acid
Two of the most effective in this range are glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane) and lactic acid (chiefly derived from lactose). These boast a variety of benefits, such as:
- Combatting pimples and calming future acne flare-ups
- Supporting collagen production
- Reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Fostering a brighter, more even skin tone
AHAs may even make your skin more receptive to other products in your lineup by enhancing product absorption. It’s best to use them in the nighttime since their exfoliating properties can make skin more vulnerable to irritation in the sun.
Instead of High-Dose Benzoyl Peroxide, Try Sulfur
Though sulfur is still building its modern reputation in the skincare arena, the substance has been used throughout history to treat unruly skin. Today, it’s best used as a dupe for both SA and benzoyl peroxide, and it tends to be even better tolerated by the skin.
Sulfur works by reducing the presence of oil in the skin, which can help keep pores decongested and clear. If you start using it, be sure to begin by applying it just once daily and building up over time (this can help to keep it from dehydrating your complexion).
Get Your Pregnancy Glowing with SneakPeek
Whether it’s discontinuing a prescribed acne medication or bringing more pregnancy-friendly foods into your diet, no change of habits is insignificant when it comes to preparing for your future bundle. Just as important are the emotional changes we make in preparation for parenthood: cultivating clarity and compassion as you adjust to life as a mom.
To find more clarity on the way, check out SneakPeek’s Early Gender Blood Test. With this DNA-based, at-home test, you can learn your future baby’s gender as early as 6 weeks into your pregnancy with over 99% clinically proven accuracy1.
With us, you’ll take your SneakPeek test on your own time, mail it to SneakPeek labs, and we’ll triple-review your results and send them back the same day we get them. We’ll even send you a complimentary downloadable report you can share with your doctor.
Find out why 1 million moms (and counting) trust SneakPeek, the #1 OBGYN-recommended at-home early gender test.
This post has been reviewed for accuracy by the following medical professional:
Dr. Heather Soper, Certified Nurse Midwife
Dr. Heather Soper brings over 15 years of experience in women's health and obstetrics to her role as the owner of The Genesis Resort for Birth. Complementing her clinical practice, she serves as an Assistant Professor of Nursing at James Madison University, where she educates nursing students with a focus on compassionate, patient-centered care. Her advanced training and dedication to midwifery are evident in her contribution to both academia and the wellness of expectant mothers.
Sources:
- Johns Hopkins Medicine. Pregnancy and Skin Changes. https://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/health/conditions-and-diseases/staying-healthy-during-pregnancy/pregnancy-and-skin-changes
- National Library of Medicine. Topical Tretinoin. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK582989/
- American Academy of Dermatology Association. Retinoid or Retinol? https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/anti-aging/retinoid-retinol
- National Library of Medicine. A Clinician’s Guide to Topical Retinoids. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8750127/
- Harvard Health Publishing. Melasma: What are the best treatments? https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/melasma-what-are-the-best-treatments-202207112776
- Healthline. How Is Melasma Treated During Pregnancy? https://www.healthline.com/health/pregnancy/melasma-pregnancy#what-is-it
- Journal of the American Board of Family Medicine. Treatment of Acne in Pregnancy. https://www.jabfm.org/content/29/2/254
- Healthline. Is Salicylic Acid Safe for Skin Care During Pregnancy? https://www.healthline.com/health/pregnancy/salicylic-acid
- Healthline. Using Essential Oils Safely During Pregnancy. https://www.healthline.com/health/pregnancy/essential-oils-for-pregnancy
- What to Expect. Are Essential Oils Safe During Pregnancy? https://www.whattoexpect.com/pregnancy/aromatherapy
- Verywell Family. Can I Use Azelaic Acid While Pregnant? https://www.verywellfamily.com/can-i-use-azelaic-acid-while-pregnant-5201393
- Healthline. What Are the Benefits of Rosehip Oil? https://www.healthline.com/health/rosehip-oil-benefits
- Verywell Family. Can I Use Vitamin C in Skincare While Pregnant? https://www.verywellfamily.com/can-pregnant-women-use-vitamin-c-in-skincare-5209493
- Harvard Health Publishing. Why is topical vitamin C important for skin health? https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/why-is-topical-vitamin-c-important-for-skin-health-202111102635
- Healthline. Everything You Need to Know About Using Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/alpha-hydroxy-acid#_noHeaderPrefixedContent
- Healthline. Can You Use Sulfur for Acne Spots and Scars? https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/sulfur-for-acne#TOC_TITLE_HDR_1
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SneakPeek aims to provide the most accurate and up-to-date information to help our readers make informed decisions regarding their health before, during, and after pregnancy. This article was written based upon trusted scientific research studies and/or articles. Credible information sources for this article are cited and hyperlinked.